Insiders Guide

Sections: 
Restaurants

Bars & Pubs
Notable Bars in Buenos Aires
Clubs
Gay Friendly
Museums
Attractions
Cinemas 
Sport, Health & Fitness



RESTAURANTS


BARS & PUBS
TimeOut Buenos Aires


NOTABLE BARS IN BUENOS AIRES
Café Tortoni (1858)
Address Avenida de Mayo 825/29 
Tel. 011 4342 4328
36 Billares (1894)
Address Avenida de Mayo 1265/71 - Barrio Monserrat
Tel. 011 4381 5696
London City (1954)
Address Avenida de Mayo 590 - Montserrat
Tel. 011 4342 9057
La Embajada (años 20`)
Address Santiago del Estero 88 – Montserrat
Tel. 011 4381 1520
La Puerto Rico (1887)
Address Alsina 420 –Montserrat


CLUBS 
Alsina
Saturday's State at the revitalised, cathedral-like Alsina is the talk of electro partyland these days. With a capacity of around 3,000 and a roster of global major leaguers like Sasha and Steve Lawler in recent months, all raver roads lead to State. Club One keeps things moving in the after-hours stakes, kicking off Sunday afternoon around 3pm and wrapping up in time to catch a solid 8 hours of shut-eye before Monday morning. A balcony kitted out with tables and sofas gives respite from the heaving mass of dancers below. Wednesday evenings host the lighter Opera Town after-office with resident DJ Nico Papaya; Fridays are predominately gay.
Address Adolfo Alsina 940, entre Bernardo de Irigoyen y Tacuarí, Monserrat
Tel. 011 4331 1277
Transport Bus 10, 17, 59, 64, 86
Open from 1am Fri, Sat; from 1pm Sun

Asia de Cuba
Wednesday nights are the main event at Asia de Cuba, when the 'after office' crowd descends early and stays late. Though this dockside spot has experienced a little fall from grace with the BA clubbing 'in' crowd, its sushi, decent drinks and dancefloor remain popular with executives and tourists from Puerto Madero's swanky hotels.
Address Pierina Dialessi 750 y Macacha Güemes
Tel. 011 4894 1328
Transport Bus 2, 130, 152
Open 1-4.30pm, from 9pm Mon-Sun

Bahrein
The boys are finally outnumbering the girls on some nights, so the recent push to gay up the disco seems to be working. For a reasonable price (the cover charge ranges from AR$10 to AR$20), you get decent electro DJs and a perfect view of beautiful people on two dancefloors, but an extra-strength caipirinha will now set you back a cool AR$25.
Address Lavalle 345 y Reconquista
Tel. 011 4315 2403
Transport Subte B, L.N. Alem
Open from 12.30am Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat; 10pm-4am Sun

Belushi Martini Bar
This swanky new addition to the Palermo bar scene is the place to see and be seen. Blending chic terrace cocktails with a bumping dancefloor, this bar-boliche brings in the well-dressed Palermo-ites in droves. Typically packed out the three nights of the week it's open, Belushi's terrace is a great spot, filled with drinkers no matter what the time, while the dancefloor doesn't get rolling till around midnight. The drinks are pricey, but expect to get what you paid for: excellent cocktails made by bartenders who know their stuff. General admission runs at around AR$30 and includes a drink.
Address Honduras 5333
Tel. 011 4831 8665
Transport Bus 34, 55, 166
Open from 8pm Thur-Sat

Caix
The surreal scene here packs in hundreds of can't-stop-won't-stop clubbers on Sunday mornings, winding down only when the DJ pulls off his headphones at around 3pm. The action takes place upstairs - there is a second airier room which looks out over the water and offers some respite for the sweat-sodden crowd.
Address Complejo Costa Salguero, Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado, y Salguero
Tel. 011 4805 6069
Transport Bus 37, 45
Open 12.30-6am Wed, Fri, Sat; 9am-3pm Sun

Casa Brandon
Where's a girl to go when she just wants to have fun? Try this four-level house - named after Brandon Teena, the transgender teen played by Hilary Swank in the 1999 film Boys Don't Cry. It's like a community centre, art gallery, bar-restaurant, lounge, disco and performance space all rolled into one. Come to collect information, gape at the shock art on display in the ground-floor gallery, indulge in some sapphic socialising (of course, boys are invited too!) over cocktails at the bar above, catch a gay tango show, listen to the DJ's selection of pop and dance tunes, or just enjoy the people-watching.
Address Luís María Drago 236, entre Lavalleja y Julián Álvarez
Tel. 011 4858 0610
Transport Subte B, Malabia
Open from 7pm Wed-Sun

Club Aráoz
Weekends here are commercial dance ; but Thursday is Aráoz's night to shine, with Lost Culture Club - the best spot in the city for upscale hip hop and R&B. Over-21s only ; ladies free before 2.30am; or call to be put on the Lost list.
Address Aráoz 2424, entre Güemes y Santa Fe
Tel. 011 4832 9751
Transport Subte D, Scalabrini Ortíz/36, 39, 106, 152 bus
Open dinner 10pm, dinner show midnight, club 1.30-7am Thur-Sat

Cocoliche
Intimate, uncommercial and low-key, this ice-cool downtown nightspot has a rotating programme with pricey cocktails (over AR$20) and a generally avant-garde vibe that pulls in a slightly left-of-centre crowd. This is the most underground of BA's main clubs, and it has been known to stay open well into the morning on Saturdays and Sundays.
Address Rivadavia 878
Tel. 011 4342 9485
Transport Subte A, Piedras
Open from 11pm Fri, Sat

Crobar
Crobar - southern sister to the North American super clubs of the same name - draws a regular crowd of devoted party people. A network of overhead balconies, walkways and VIP areas are cantilevered over the main dancefloor, with four well-attended bars serving up decent drinks at a premium. Saturdays can be hit-or-miss: better to shell out the hefty entry fee on Friday nights for the international DJ sets.
Address Paseo de la Infanta, Avenida del Libertador 3883 y Infanta Isabel
Tel. 011 4778 1500
Transport Bus 10, 34, 36
Open from 10pm Fri, Sat

El Living
El Living is a two-room chill-out nightclub-lounge for the indie-geek scene. Get there around 10pm, and you can enjoy a decent dinner for AR$40 - an aperitif, main course, dessert and a drink - and stay on for an evening of quirky, unpredictable tunes.
Address Marcelo T de Alvear 1540, entre Montevideo y Paraná, Tribunales
Tel. 011 4811 4730, 011 4815 6574
Transport Bus 39, 152
Open 7pm-3am Thur; 10pm-6am Fri, Sat

Glam
A good two years past its prime, Glam still packs lots of beautiful gay guys in on Thursdays (AR$25; AR$15 with a pass) and Saturdays (AR$30; AR$20 with a pass), with expatriates, tourists (you'll hear as much English as Spanish) and porteños of all ages rounding out the crowd. Pick your cruising spot - two bars, several lounge areas or one packed dancefloor - and let the fun and games begin.
Address Cabrera 3046, entre Laprida y Agüero, Barrio Norte
Tel. 011 4963 2521
Transport Bus 29, 109, 111
Open from 1am Thur-Sat

Jet Lounge
An exclusive private lounge and club located on the Costanera, Jet Lounge has played host to some of BA's most exclusive events, including fashion parties, premieres and high-profile music events. In the early evenings it's a relaxed lounge-bar, complete with cocktails, sushi and a beautiful marina view. As the night continues, the vibe peps up with house tunes.
Address Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado 4801
Tel. 011 4872 5599
Open from 12.30am Fri, Sat

La Cigale
At La Cigale, you're as likely to find the Pink Panther being shown on a giant screen as you are live music on the tiny stage or a minimal DJ. The four happy hours, from 6pm to 10pm, are some of BA's most impressive and well priced, with white Russians, mojitos, blue lagoons and pints of Heineken all two-for-one, at prices from AR$16 to AR$20.
Address 25 de Mayo 722, entre Viamonte y Córdoba, Microcentro
Tel. 011 4312 8275
Transport Subte B, LN Alem
Open from 6pm Mon-Fri; from 9pm Sat and bank holidays

Le Bar
This classy cocktail joint has a cutting-edge interior design that contrasts exquisitely with the old-time look of the building. Go upstairs to the top bar, where punters sit in circular dug-out seating. On the menu, exotic world flavours spice up some of the best finger food in town.
Address Tucumán 422, entre Reconquista y San Martín, Sarmiento
Tel. 011 5219 0858
Transport Subte B, Florida
Open from noon Mon-Fri; from 9pm Sat

Mandarine
After a long, relatively happy life as the-club-formerly-known-as Mint, this sprawling riverside boliche went through a brief identity crisis called Rouge, which we are perfectly willing to pretend never happened. Mandarine, the current incarnation, is one of Saturday's better picks: the capacity crowds that put Mint on the map still party on here. Check out the back room for more interesting minimal house and jungle beats than the main room's watery generic beats.
Address Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado y Sarmiento, Punta Carrasco
Tel. 011 4806 8002
Transport Bus 33, 37
Open from 1am Sat

Mundo Bizarro
An institution since 1997, Mundo Bizarro might have changed its location, but it can't change its spots as one of the city's great hedonistic, rocking hotspots. Artwork on the blood-red walls gives the place a bohemian vibe that extends to the menu. After 1am, it's a heady mix of music, great cocktails (there are over 50 on the menu) and sociable people.
Address Serrano 1222 y Córdoba
Tel. 011 4773 1967
Transport Bus 15, 55, 168
Open 8pm-3am Sun-Wed; 8pm-4am Thur; 8pm-5am Fri, Sat

Museum
Wednesday's 'after office' (that's happy hour in BA lingo) parties remain Museum's biggest draw. This is the place for anyone after heaving crowds, cheap booze, occasional live music and a record collection that resembles a full-on cheeseboard. Women get in for free, but ladies beware: the guys at this meet market are even less subtle than usual in making their moves.
Address Perú 535, entre Mexico y Venezuela
Tel. 011 4771 9628
Transport Bus 2, 9, 10, 22, 24, 29
Open 8pm-2am Wed; from 10pm Fri-Sun

Niceto Club
Topped off by Thursday night's glittering freak-magnet club night, Club 69, Palermo's Niceto is one of the most sure-fire spots in town to get down. With more than a decade under its belt, it powers on with a packed weekend roster in both of its two rooms. A mix of club nights and live dancehall, reggaeton, nu-cumbia and indie rock performers make up an eclectic programme that has featured the likes of Stereo Total, Devendra Banhart and Bajofondo. The fun-loving throng generally peaks at around 3am.
Address Niceto Vega 5510, entre Humboldt y Fitz Roy
Tel. 011 4779 9396
Transport Bus 39, 93, 151, 168
Open Club from midnight Thu-Sat; Box office noon-6pm Mon-Fri

Pacha
BA's outpost of Ibiza's clubbing giant - pronounced Pachá by locals - overlooks the river and remains a sure-fire destination for partying, especially on Saturday nights. Expect international names - Sander Kleinenberg, Dave Clarke et al - in the large, sweaty main room, which has several bars. The patio DJ upstairs tends to play softer, funkier tunes, for sunglass-clad clubbers to get their groove on under the stars.
Address Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado, y La Pampa
Tel. 011 4788 4280
Transport Bus 37, 160
Open mid Feb-Dec from 1am Sat and occasional other nights

Rheo
As much a runway/posing area as a club night, the new Friday party in Crobar's side space debuted in March and already has three things going for it: BA's best-looking gay crowd, a friendly party vibe, and a massive, hopping outdoor area that'll make you stick around far longer than you might have intended to. Special performances and theme parties like Descamisados (shirtless night!) have helped maintain interest beyond this club night's first few weeks. Now practically middle-aged, it's the post-Palacio pleasure dome that seems most likely to spawn long-term love.
Address Avenida Libertador 3886, Paseo de la Infanta, Palermo
Tel. 011 4778 1500
Transport Bus 10, 34, 36
Open from midnight

Rumi
Rumi's strict door policy and queues from around 2am make it a good idea to turn up early for dinner first. Once inside, you'll be privy to one of the most glamorous club scenes in BA. Big names grace the DJ booth, but bigger names mingle on the dancefloor - a favourite haunt for many a model, celeb and young socialite.
Address Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 6442 y La Pampa
Tel. 011 4782 1307
Transport Bus 37, 130
Open dinner from 9.30pm, club from 1am Tue-Sat

Superfriendly
The boys are finally outnumbering the girls, so the recent push to gay up the disco on Wednesdays and Fridays at Bahrein seems to be working. Why rise and shine at the crack of dawn to get an early start on sightseeing when you can get your fill where the boys are, in the ground-floor Funky Room - and stay up way past your bedtime? The perfect view is reasonably priced (the cover charge ranges from AR$10 to AR$20), but an extra-strength caipirinha will now set you back a cool AR$25. One is all you'll need to build up the courage to beeline to that beautiful stranger holding court on and off the dancefloor.
Address Lavalle 343 y Reconquista, Microcentro
Tel. 011 4315 2403
Transport Bus 6, 22, 28, 93, 152
Open from 12.30am

The Basement Club
This Recoleta classic benefits from plugged-in promoters who consistently bring in some of BA's best DJs in an ever-changing line-up that focuses on electronica and deep house. It's a great joint that's always full, and is one of the few clubs that gets busy earlier on, especially on Thursdays. It's also one of the best places in BA to be during the key nightlife hours of 3am to 7am, when the place is rocking with a mix of locals, tourists and some of the most up-for-it clubbers in BA.
Address The Shamrock, Rodríguez Peña 1220, entre Juncal y Arenales
Tel. 011 4812 3584
Open from 9pm Thur; from 1am Fri, Sat

Voodoo Motel
With a measly year under its belt, Voodoo Motel has racked up an impressive weekly lineup that kicks off with Wednesday's long-running Undertones party, followed by more unmissable musical mischief and mayhem on Thursday and Friday nights. Frequent live performers pop up between DJ sets throughout the week, adding a little punk spirit to the cool, thoroughly enjoyable carousing. A central patio offers a little breathing room between the chill front salon and bar and the rollicking, punter-packed boogaloo quarters out the back. The nosh on offer might be a tad questionable; fortunately you are in the dining district and have plenty of other options nearby.
Address Dorrego 1735, entre Gorriti y Cabrera, Palermo
Tel. 9 15 3546 3480 mobile
Transport Bus 140, 151, 161, 168
Open from 8pm Wed-Sat


GAY FRIENDLY
Alsina
Saturday's State at the revitalised, cathedral-like Alsina is the talk of electro partyland these days. With a capacity of around 3,000 and a roster of global major leaguers like Sasha and Steve Lawler in recent months, all raver roads lead to State. Club One keeps things moving in the after-hours stakes, kicking off Sunday afternoon around 3pm and wrapping up in time to catch a solid 8 hours of shut-eye before Monday morning. A balcony kitted out with tables and sofas gives respite from the heaving mass of dancers below. Wednesday evenings host the lighter Opera Town after-office with resident DJ Nico Papaya; Fridays are predominately gay.
Address Adolfo Alsina 940, entre Bernardo de Irigoyen y Tacuarí, Monserrat
Tel. 011 4331 1277
Transport Bus 10, 17, 59, 64, 86
Open from 1am Fri, Sat; from 1pm Sun

Bahrein
The boys are finally outnumbering the girls on some nights, so the recent push to gay up the disco seems to be working. For a reasonable price (the cover charge ranges from AR$10 to AR$20), you get decent electro DJs and a perfect view of beautiful people on two dancefloors, but an extra-strength caipirinha will now set you back a cool AR$25.
Address Lavalle 345 y Reconquista
Tel. 011 4315 2403
Transport Subte B, L.N. Alem
Open from 12.30am Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat; 10pm-4am Sun

Casa Brandon
Where's a girl to go when she just wants to have fun? Try this four-level house - named after Brandon Teena, the transgender teen played by Hilary Swank in the 1999 film Boys Don't Cry. It's like a community centre, art gallery, bar-restaurant, lounge, disco and performance space all rolled into one. Come to collect information, gape at the shock art on display in the ground-floor gallery, indulge in some sapphic socialising (of course, boys are invited too!) over cocktails at the bar above, catch a gay tango show, listen to the DJ's selection of pop and dance tunes, or just enjoy the people-watching.
Address Luís María Drago 236, entre Lavalleja y Julián Álvarez
Tel. 011 4858 0610
Transport Subte B, Malabia
Open from 7pm Wed-Sun

El Teatro
Set in a spectacular old theatre equipped with two bars, El Teatro is decidedly a rocker joint: the bars don't have imported whiskey, just beer and basic drinks. But the great acoustics combined with good sound make a gig here a decent outing. On Saturday nights, a crowd of boys and girls - some a little on the young side - converge here for the gay and lesbian pop-and-rock Ambar La Fox party.
Address Federico Lacroze 3455 y Alvarez Thomas
Tel. 011 4555 1145
Transport Bus 19, 39, 112, 168
Open from 9pm Wed-Sun
Tickets AR$10-$20

Glam
A good two years past its prime, Glam still packs lots of beautiful gay guys in on Thursdays (AR$25; AR$15 with a pass) and Saturdays (AR$30; AR$20 with a pass), with expatriates, tourists (you'll hear as much English as Spanish) and porteños of all ages rounding out the crowd. Pick your cruising spot - two bars, several lounge areas or one packed dancefloor - and let the fun and games begin.
Address Cabrera 3046, entre Laprida y Agüero, Barrio Norte
Transport Bus 29, 109, 111
Tel. 011 4963 2521
Open from 1am Thur-Sat

Pride Café
This gay-friendly San Telmo meeting point has cute young waiters, a good early crowd, and a decent music mix. Best food choice: café cortado and a slice of pie.
Address Balcarce 869 y Pasaje Giuffra, San Telmo
Tel. 011 4300 6435
Open 9am-9pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat; 10am-10pm Sun

Rheo
As much a runway/posing area as a club night, the new Friday party in Crobar's side space debuted in March and already has three things going for it: BA's best-looking gay crowd, a friendly party vibe, and a massive, hopping outdoor area that'll make you stick around far longer than you might have intended to. Special performances and theme parties like Descamisados (shirtless night!) have helped maintain interest beyond this club night's first few weeks. Now practically middle-aged, it's the post-Palacio pleasure dome that seems most likely to spawn long-term love.
Address Avenida Libertador 3886, Paseo de la Infanta, Palermo
Tel. 011 4778 1500
Transport Bus 10, 34, 36
Open from midnight

Sattva
In the heart of one of downtown's least varied culinary districts, smack in the pizzeria-heavy Broadway of Buenos Aires, Avenida Corrientes, is Sattva, a charming vegetarian restaurant. The warm, candle-lit atmosphere caters to a predominantly gay and lesbian crowd. The attentive service and beautifully presented dishes should make any foodie feel right at home.
A varied menu offers the best of Mexican and Asian food as well as pizzas and pastas. For starters, try the soup with sesame seeds and pumpkin, moving on to tuck into a burrito with grilled greens and pumpkin, onion and carrot. Or go for tacos with beans, rice, cheese, a small salad and delicious guacamole - a dish that's both filling and memorable.
Address Montevideo 446 entre Lavalle y Avenida Corrientes, Microcentro
Tel. 011 4374 5125
Transport Subte B, Callao/bus 39, 60, 102
Open 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; 8.30pm-1am Tue-Sun
Main course AR$18-$34

Sitges
One of BA's few options for gays and lesbians looking for a bar stool where they can kill an hour or two before hitting the dancefloor. Some nights, drag comedy, musical numbers and strippers who grin and bare all liven up the mood. Friday nights $AR25 buys you all the booze you can handle.
Address Avenida Córdoba 4119, entre Palestina y Pringles
Tel. 011 4861 3763
Open from 10.30pm Wed-Sun
 
Superfriendly
The boys are finally outnumbering the girls, so the recent push to gay up the disco on Wednesdays and Fridays at Bahrein seems to be working. Why rise and shine at the crack of dawn to get an early start on sightseeing when you can get your fill where the boys are, in the ground-floor Funky Room - and stay up way past your bedtime? The perfect view is reasonably priced (the cover charge ranges from AR$10 to AR$20), but an extra-strength caipirinha will now set you back a cool AR$25. One is all you'll need to build up the courage to beeline to that beautiful stranger holding court on and off the dancefloor.
Address Lavalle 343 y Reconquista, Microcentro
Tel. 011 4315 2403
Transport Bus 6, 22, 28, 93, 152
Open from 12.30am


Buque Museo Fragata Presidente Sarmiento
This frigate, built in Birkenhead, was used as a training ship from 1897 to 1961 and is now a museum full of photos, maps and domestic objects, with the cabins and dining rooms restored and intact.
Address Alicia Moreau de Justo 900 y Belgrano, Dique 3, Puerto Madero
Tel. 011 4334 9336, 011 4334 9386 
Open 9am-8pm daily
Admission AR$2; free under-5s
Transport Subte B, LN Alem/4, 93, 152 bus 

El Zanjón de Granados
Part archaeological museum, part event space, El Zanjón is a beautifully restored residence encapsulating three centuries of urban living. Although the façade dates from 1830, traces from an earlier patrician home - an open-air cistern, a lookout tower and a 1740s wall comprised of seashell mortaring - serve to transport you to the era of Spanish settlement. In 1985, the crumbling wreck was rescued by amateur historian, Jorge Eckstein, who started dredging the 545 feet (166 metres) of tunnels beneath his property. Seventeen years and 139 truckloads of debris later, he'd unearthed a treasure trove of workaday and eclectic objects - French tiles, African pipes, and English china.
Address Defensa 755, entre Chile y Independencia
Tel. 011 4361 3002 
Open 11am-5pm Mon-Fri (tours on the hour)
Admission AR$20

MALBA: Colección Costantini
At MALBA, Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, Tarsila do Amaral and other ground-breaking painters share the walls with Argentinian modern masters such as Antonio Berni and Jorge de la Vega. There's also a good café and terrace restaurant, plus a small cinema specialising in cult and art-house retrospectives.
Address Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, entre Salguero y San Martín de Tours
Tel. 011 4808 6500 
Transport Bus 67, 102, 130
Open noon-8pm Mon, Thur-Sun; noon-9pm Wed
Admission AR$18; reductions AR$9

Museo Casa Carlos Gardel
A long overdue tribute to one of the 20th century's greatest exponents of popular song, the Gardel museum preserves and exhibits various items and pieces of memorabilia that either belonged to or were connected with the master.
Address Jean Jaurès 735, entre Zelaya y Tucumán
Tel. 011 4964 2015
Transport Subte B, Pueyrredón or Carlos Gardel/29, 99, 140 bus
Open 11am-6pm Mon, Wed-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat, Sun
Admission AR$3. Free Wed

Museo Casa de Yrurtia
This was the home of sculptor Rogelio Yrurtia (1879-1950) and is a joy to visit, as much for the beautiful white house and lush garden as for the small sculptures and casts of major works.
Address O'Higgins 2390 y Blanco Encalada
Tel. 011 4781 0385
Transport Bus 29, 59, 60, 152
Open 1-7pm Tue-Fri; 3-7pm Sun.
Admission AR$1; free concessions. Free Tue.

Museo de Armas de la Nacíon
This well-curated weapons museum in the Palacio Retiro houses a sizeable collection of arms and army uniforms, some dating from the 12th century and some contemporary, in 17 rooms.
Address Avenida Santa Fe 750, entre Maipú y Esmeralda
Tel. 011 4311 1071
Transport Subte C, San Martín
Open 1-7pm Mon-Fri. Closed Jan, Feb
Admission AR$5

Museo de Arte Español Enrique Larreta
The varied collection here includes Renaissance and modern Spanish art, displayed among stunning furniture, tapestries and silverware. Equally eye-catching are the gardens, a riot of flowering and climbing plants skirting a large native ombú tree.
Address Juramento 2291 y Vuelta de Obligado
Tel. 011 4783 2640
Transport Subte D, Juramento/55, 60, 65 bus
Open 2-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-1pm, 3-8pm Sat, Sun.
Admission AR$1.

Museo de Artes Plásticas Eduardo Sívori
Located in Parque Tres de Febrero, this excellent museum houses a major collection of Argentinian paintings and sculpture that spans the 19th century to the present day.
Address Avenida Infanta Isabel 555 y Libertador
Tel. 011 4774 9452
Transport Bus 34, 67, 130
Open Dec-Apr noon-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. May-Nov noon-6pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat, Sun
Admission AR$1; free under-12s, to all Wed

Museo de Bellas Artes de La Boca Benito Quinquela Martín
In the 1930s, over-excited local critics compared Martín's canvases, with their characteristic spatula marks, to those of Van Gogh. The artist's vibrant collection is organised around three themes: fire (once a constant hazard for La Boca's wood-framed warehouses), port workers and ships' graveyards.
Address Avenida Pedro de Mendoza 1835, entre Palos y Del Valle Iberlucea
Tel. 011 4301 1080
Transport Bus 29, 53, 64, 152
Open 10am-5pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5.30pm Sat, Sun. Closed Jan
Admission suggested contribution AR$2.

Museo de Calcos y Esculturas Comparadas
This branch of the city's main public art college contains a collection of sculpted replicas of ancient, Gothic and Renaissance masterpieces. Among the notable knock-offs are Michelangelo's 'David' and the Venus de Milo. Guided tours are offered on request; Indeed, it's best to call ahead before visiting, since opening hours seem to be quite 'flexible'.
Address Avenida Tristán Achaval Rodríguez 1701, Costanera Sur
Tel. 011 4361 4419
Transport Bus 2, 4
Open 9.30am-noon Tue-Fri; 11.30am-5pm Sat
Admission free

Museo de la Deuda Externa
The Museum of Foreign Debt harks back not only to the city's golden age but to a recent and less glittering era: the economic crisis of 2001-02. The museum charts the course of the country's overdraft from the first default of 1827 to the chaos of December 2001. It all sounds pretty grim, but despite, or perhaps because of, the downbeat subject matter, the exhibits are suffused with the dark humour porteños are famous for. Perhaps best avoided if you work for the International Monetary Fund.
Address Centro Cultural Ernesto Sábato, Facultad de Ciencias Económicas,
Uriburu 763, entre Viamonte y Córdoba
Tel. 011 4370 6105
Transport Subte D, Facultad de Medicina/39, 68, 152 bus
Open 3-8pm Tue-Fri
Admission free

Museo de la Pasión Boquense
Stop by this museum adjacent to La Bombonera stadium for all things Boca Juniors. There are loads of audiovisual gadgets, mountains of facts and figures and, of course, tributes to Boca legend Diego Maradona.
Address Brandsen 805 y Del Valle Iberlucea
Tel. 011 4362 1100
Transport Bus 29, 53, 64, 152
Open 10am-7pm daily (closed on match days)
Admission AR$22 museum & tour; half-price concessions

Museo del Traje
Appreciate some of BA's design history at this small, entertaining museum. The bald, black-and-white mannequins posed like cocktail partygoers are a bit on the creepy side, but the intricately crafted dresses they're wearing are gorgeous and well preserved.
Address Chile 832, entre Tacuarí y Piedras
Tel. 011 4343 8427
Transport Subte C, Independencia
Museo del Traje website
Open 11am-5pm Mon-Fri (tours on the hour)
Admission AR$20

Museo Etnográfico
This museum's small, fascinating collection includes headdresses, masks and cooking implements as well as panels describing Argentina's indigenous tribes, including the Yamanas of Tierra del Fuego, region by region. A carved wooden Japanese Buddhist altarpiece is the museum's most valuable object.
Address Moreno 350, entre Balcarce y Defensa
Tel. 011 4331 7788
Transport Subte A, Plaza de Mayo or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar
Open 3-7pm Wed-Sun. Closed Jan
Admission AR$2

Museo Evita
Opened in 2001, this museum is housed in an aristocratic residence that Juan Perón expropriated; he converted it into a women's shelter for his wife's quasi-statal welfare agency. Paintings, posters and busts are displayed alongside the outfits Eva wore on tours of Europe, with the star exhibits being two dresses designed by Paco Jamandreu, which she wore for her audiences with the Pope, and her libreta cívica (ID card): number 0.000.001. Arguably better than the museum itself is the newly refurbished restaurant and outdoor terrace.
Address Lafinur 2988, entre Gutiérrez y Las Heras
Tel. 011 4807 9433, 011 4807 0306
Transport Subte D, Plaza Italia/37, 59, 60, 102 bus
Open 1-7pm Tue-Sun
Admission AR$5

Museo Histórico Nacional
This useful introduction to the city's history includes exhibits from the pre-Columbian, conquest and post-independence periods, plus countless photographs of military men with drooping moustaches.
Address Defensa 1600 y Caseros
Tel. 011 4307 1182
Open 11am-5pm Tue-Fri; 3-6pm Sat; 2-6pm Sun. Closed Jan
Admission AR$2

Museo Histórico Nacional del Cabildo y de la Revolución de Mayo
The Cabildo was the HQ of the city council between 1580 and 1821. The museum comprises a number of austere rooms in which you'll find valuable items such as a magnificent gold and silver piece from Oruro (Bolivia); one of the country's first printing presses; and a number of items relating to the English invasions of the early 19th century.
Address Bolívar 65, entre Avenida de Mayo y Hipólito Yrigoyen
Tel. 011 4334 1782, 011 4342 6729
Transport Subte A, Plaza de Mayo or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar
Open 11.30am-6pm Tue-Fri; 2-6pm Sat, Sun
Admission AR$1

Museo Histórico y Numismático del Banco de la Nación Argentina
A real mouthful of a museum, this one is mainly of interest to anthropologists and those who enjoy staring at money they'll never be able to spend. It exhibits exotic early bank notes (in circulation since 1820) featuring dogs, goats, cows and even a kangaroo, as well as gold and silver coins.
Address First floor, Bartolomé Mitre 326, entre 25 de Mayo y Reconquista
Tel. 011 4347 6277
Transport Subte B, Florida
Open 10am-3pm Mon-Fri
Admission free

Museo Mitre
This colonial mansion dating from 1785 was, between 1860 and 1906, the home of former president and founder of La Nación  newspaper, Bartolomé Mitre. The library is the main attraction: it holds some of the region's most important books, as well as documents on Latin American history and some unique photographic exhibits.
Address San Martín 336, entre Corrientes y Sarmiento
Tel. 011 4394 7659
Transport Subte B, Florida
Open 12-7.30pm Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri
Admission AR$5

Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo
This stunning building was converted into a museum in 1937, and its majestic ballrooms, bedrooms and hallways today display over 4,000 pieces of decorative art, plus works by well-known artists such as El Greco and Manet. The museum has a good bookshop in the basement.
Address Avenida del Libertador 1902 y Pereyra Lucena
Tel. 011 4801 8248
Transport Bus 10, 59, 60, 67, 130
Open 2-7pm daily. Closed 1st wks Jan.
Admission AR$8. free to all Tue.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
The MNBA is home to 32 rooms, sculpture patios, an architecture display, studios, a library and an auditorium. The country's biggest collection of 19th- and 20th-century Argentinian art is on permanent display here. The international collection on the ground floor includes works by El Greco, Rubens, Rembrandt and Goya.
Address Avenida del Libertador 1473 y Pueyrredón,
Telephone 011 4803 8814, 011 4803 4691
Transport Bus 17, 62, 67, 93, 130
Open 12.30-8.30pm Tue-Fri; 9.30am-8.30pm Sat, Sun
Admission free

Museo Nacional Ferroviario
Housed in an ageing railway building, this tribute to the age of the train covers two floors and comprises exhibits from a railway era that puts recent car-obsessed governments to shame.
Address Avenida del Libertador 405 y Suipacha
Tel. 011 4318 3343
Transport Subte C, Retiro
Open 10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri
Admission free

Museo Participativo de Ciencias
'Prohibido no tocar' (it's forbidden not to touch) is the endearing motto of this science museum in the Recoleta cultural centre, where kids can explore the mysteries of the natural sciences. For art-loving parents, the art gallery housed in the same building is well worth a visit, and if you come at the weekend, you'll have the added benefit of a visit to the crafts fair in the green space outside at Plaza Francia.
Address 1st Floor, Centro Cultural Recoleta, entre Junín 1930, y Quintana
Tel. 011 4807 3260
Transport Bus 10, 17, 60, 67, 92, 110
Open 10am-5pm Mon-Fri; 3.30-7.30pm Sat, Sun & holidays. From 10 Dec to 10 March 3.30-7.30pm daily
Admission AR$15; free under-4s

Museo Participativo de Ciencias Naturales Bernardino Rivadavia
This natural history museum is thrilling for kids who are dotty about dinosaurs. For a more hands-on activity, the museum offers two-hour workshops in paleontology (9am, 10.30am, 2pm and 3.30pm).
Address Avenida Angel Gallardo 470, entre Warnes y Marechal
Tel. 011 4982 1154, 011 4982 4494
Transport Subte B, Angel Gallardo
Open 2-7pm daily
Admission AR$3; free under-6s
A bit of Blighty in the heart of Buenos Aires, the BAC puts on loads of free events such as plays and films in English as well as jazz, Celtic and classical concerts, and photo and art exhibits and workshops.
Address Suipacha 1333, entre Juncal y Arroyo
Tel. 011 4393 6941
Transport Bus 59, 61, 93, 130, 152.
Open Feb 12.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri. Mar-Dec 3-9pm Mon-Fri. Closed Jan.
Admission varies.

Caminito
This street's name literally means 'little walkway'. These days, the street is thronged with tango dancers, artisans and tourists.
Address La Boca
Transport Bus 29, 53, 64, 152

Casa de la Cultura
Built in 1896, this building was once the headquarters of the La Prensa  newspaper but now belongs to the city government. Its French feel goes beyond the façades: the impressive Salón Dorado, inspired by the Palace of Versailles, hosts chamber music concerts each Friday at 7pm.
Address Avenida de Mayo 575, entre Perú y Bolívar
Tel. 011 4323 9669
Transport Subte A, Perú or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar
Open Feb-Dec 8am-8pm Mon-Fri; by tour Sat, Sun. Closed Jan
Admission free

Catedral Metropolitana
On the western side of the plaza is this neo-classical cathedral. The plan for the cream-coloured building, the sixth cathedral on this site, was hatched in 1753; the first façade was blessed in 1791, and the final touches were added in 1910. The right-hand nave houses a mausoleum for the remains of José de San Martín, Argentina's 'liberator'.
Address Avenida Rivadavia y San Martín
Tel. 011 4331 2845
Transport Subte A, Plaza de Mayo or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar
Open 8am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-7.30pm Sat, Sun
Admission free

Cementerio de la Chacarita
Now far more expansive than Recoleta's exclusive necropolis, with numbered streets and car access to its thousands of vaults, this cemetery is largely for ordinary folk. Still, a number of popular heroes have wound up here, including Carlos Gardel, Alfonsina Storni and aviation pioneer Jorge Newbery.
Address Guzmán 630 y Federico Lacroze
Tel. 011 4553 0041, 011 4553 9038, 011 4553 0041 tours
Transport Subte B, Federico Lacroze/39, 93, 111 bus
Open 7am-6pm daily
Admission free

Cementerio de la Recoleta
The cemetery, opened in 1822, is home to hundreds of illustrious corpses, laid out in a compact yet very extensive maze of granite, marble and bronze mausoleums. Originally a public cemetery, it is now even harder to get into than the posh flats that surround it. Many Argentinian presidents are entombed here, but most of the cemetery's visitors probably come to see the resting place of María Eva Duarte de Perón, aka Evita.
Address Junín 1760, entre Guido y Vicente López
Tel. 011 4803 1594
Transport Bus 10, 17, 60, 67, 92, 110
Open 7am-5.45pm daily
Admission free

El Obelisco
The 223-foot (68-metre) Obelisco was built to mark four historical events: the first and the final foundation of Buenos Aires; the 1880 declaration of the city as the country's federal capital; and the site of the demolished church of San Nicolás, where the national flag was first flown.
Address Avenida 9 de Julio y Corrientes
Transport Subte B, Carlos Pellegrini or C, Diagonal Norte, Tribunales

Floralis Genérica
Designed by Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano, the Floralis Genérica lies in the Plaza de las Naciones Unidas. A steel and aluminum flower sculpture whose petals open and close with the sun, this was Catalano's gift to his natal city. At night, with petals closed, a red light shines from the flower's interior.
Address Avenida Figueroa Alcorta y Austria

Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays
Designed by celebrated French landscaper Charles Thays and inaugurated in 1898, BA's botanical garden is slightly shabby but nonetheless tranquil and full of fascinating flora. Thousands of species (and feral cats) flourish here, and fountains, orchids, cacti, ferns and spectacular trees make this a paradise for anyone who likes pottering around in the garden.
Address Avenida Santa Fe 3951
Tel. 011 4831 4527
Transport Subte D, Plaza Italia
Open Nov-Mar 8am-8pm daily; Apr-Oct 9am-6pm daily
Admission free

Jardín Japonés
Created in 1967 as a gift from the local Japanese community, BA's Japanese garden is one of the largest in the world outside of Japan. You'll find over 150 species of flora here, many brought specially from the mother country, with some on sale at the small shop next to the entrance. There's also a great Japanese restaurant.
Address Avenida Casares y Berro
Tel. 011 4804 4922
Transport Subte D, Scalabrini Ortiz
Open 10am-6pm daily
Admission AR$8; free reductions

Jardín Zoológico
BA's city zoo is one of those interesting but discomfiting attractions that many animal lovers will prefer to shun. Of more general interest are the buildings, constructed between 1888 and 1904, which copy the architecture of the animals' native countries. Of the beasts themselves, the polar bears are glum but stoical, the monkeys are cheeky and permanently horny and a baby giraffe is the latest 'guest' to wow the crowds. There are now night openings.
Address Avenida Santa Fe y Las Heras
Tel. 011 4011 9900
Transport Subte D, Plaza Italia/39, 93, 152 bus
Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun
Admission AR$12.50; free under-12s.

Manzana de las Luces
The 'Block of Enlightenment' is a complex of historical buildings that occupies an entire city block (manzana  can mean 'block' as well as 'apple'). You can tour the semi-circular chamber, the patios and a series of 18th-century tunnels that used to link the building to the coast behind what is now Plaza de Mayo, several hundred metres away. The block's Iglesia de San Ignacio dates from 1734.
Address Perú 272, entre Moreno y Alsina
Tel. 011 4342 3964
Transport Subte A, Plaza de Mayo or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar
Open noon-3pm Tue, Wed, Fri; 3-7pm Sat, Sun
Admission free; guided tours AR$5

Palacio Barolo
One of the city's most emblematic buildings, this 1923 construction is a neo-gothic allegorical tribute to the 100 cantos of Dante's Divine Comedy. Hell is on the ground floor: Latin inscriptions taken from nine literary works represent the nine infernal circles and are engraved on the entrance hall's nine vaults. The first 14 floors comprise Purgatory, while Paradise can be found in the upper reaches. At the top is a domed lighthouse, representing God. Guided tours are available for AR$20.
Address Avenida de Mayo 1370, entre San José y Santiago del Estero
Transport Subte A, Saénz Peña

Palacio del Congreso
Argentina's constitution was inspired by the US model; and likewise, the Palacio del Congreso resembles Washington's bicameral legislature. Completed in 1906, the Congress building's extravagant interior is open for guided tours.
Address Hipólito Yrigoyen 1849, entre Entre Ríos y Combate de los Pozos
Tel. 011 4370 7100
Transport Subte A, Congreso
Open Closed Jan
Admission free

Palais de Glace
Palais de Glace, which opened its doors to skaters in 1910, means 'ice palace'. The grand circular structure also housed a landmark tango salon before being declared a National Monument in 2004. Today, the renovated palace hosts major exhibitions in fashion and the visual arts. Free tours in English are held every Saturday and Sunday at 5pm by appointment.
Address Posadas 1725 y Schiaffino,
Tel.
011 4804 1163
Transport Bus 17, 61, 67, 92, 93, 130
Open 2-8pm Tue-Sun
Admission free

Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur
Within this nature reserve's boundaries, four lakes, giant cortaderias (foxtail pampas grass), willows and shrubs provide natural habitats for more than 200 bird species. Iguanas can be spotted scuttling across the hard earth, but on weekends you're more likely to see joggers, cyclists and picnickers, when up to 15,000 visitors descend on the reserve. Moonlight tours are arranged one night per month, when the moon is fullest.
Address Avenida Tristán Achaval Rodríguez 1550,entre Brasil y Rosario Vera Peñaloza
Tel. 011 4893 1588, 0800 444 5343 freephone
Transport Bus 2, 4
Open Apr-Sept 8am-5.45pm Tue-Sun. Oct-Mar 8am-6.45pm Tue-Sun
Admission free

Teatro Colón
With its regular lines and tempered classicism, the Colón is one of Buenos Aires' key architectural as well as cultural landmarks.
Closed for a major facelift in 2006, Teatro Colón was scheduled to reopen in May 2010. In the event of renovation delays check their website for details.
Address Cerrito 618, entre Tucumán y Viamonte, Tribunales
Transport Subte D, Tribunales/7,10,100 bus
Telephone 011 4378 7344
Tierra Santa
This Holy Land extravaganza begins with a son-et-lumière show celebrating the Nativity. As the Angel of the Anunciation descends from a neon-lit sky, locals in Middle Eastern garb herd visitors into the 'world's largest manger'. The pièce de résistance, however, is the Resurrection, which takes place every 45 minutes, weather permitting, when an 18-metre Jesus rises from the park's central mountain.
Address Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado 5790
Tel. 011 4784 9551
Transport Bus 33, 37, 42, 160
Open May-Nov 4pm-12.30am Fri-Sun. Dec-Apr 9am-9pm Fri; noon-11pm Sat, Sun
Admission AR$20; AR$8 under-11s

CINEMAS

Buenos Aires Cineclub Mon amour
Passion for film, a lovely San Telmo location, and the optimal angle for a cinema floor : those are the ingredients for our contender for BA’s most charming cinema. Named in hommage to the beautiful 1959 film Hiroshima Mon Amour, Buenos Aires Mon Amour cineclub is a bijou back room 38-seater.
Only with online reservation
Address A few meters from Carlos Calvo y Perú
Tel. 15 5507 2733 (Carlos)
Admission AR$12

INTERNATIONAL AND NATIONAL CINEMAS:
Hoyts
Address Avda. Corrientes 3200, Almagro
Tel. 4866 4800

Ocean
Address Lavalle 719, Centro

Alto Palermo
Address Avda. Santa Fe 3251, Palermo
Tel. 4827 8362

Paseo Alcorta
Address Salguero Y Alcorta, Palermo
Tel. 4806 5665

Patio Bullrich
Address Libertador 750, Recoleta
Tel. 4815 8328

Galerías Pacífico
Address Florida 735
Tel. 4319 5357

Atlas Recoleta
Address Guido 1952, Recoleta
Tel. 4803 3313

Cinemark 10
Address Bulnes y Berutti, Palermo
Tel. 4827 9000
Address Alicia Moreau de Justo y San Juan, Puerto Madero
Tel. 4315 3008

NATIONAL CINEMAS:
Complejo Tita Merello
Address Suipacha 442
Tel. 4322-1195

Gaumont
Address Rivadavia 1635, Centro
Tel. 4371 3050

Cosmos
Address Av. Corrientes 2046


SPORT, HEALTH & FITNESS
Campo Argentino de Polo de Palermo
This wonderful polo field in Palermo has a capacity of 45,000. Tickets for tournaments, played in November and December, are available from Ticketek (5237 7200).
Address Avenida del Libertador 4300 y Dorrego
Tel. 011 4777 6444
Transport Bus 15, 29, 55, 60
Tickets General entrance free; Argentinian Open AR$20-$460; Argentinian Open final AR$50-$1700

Estadio Alberto J Armando (La Bombonera)
Watching a game here is a unique and vertiginous experience: the concrete stands vibrate, and at the higher levels, you feel a wrong move might tip you out onto the pitch itself. The platea baja in the stands area is your recommended (and safer) vantage point.
Address Brandsen 805 y la Vía
Tel. 011 4309 4700
Transport Bus 10, 29, 53, 64
Estadio Luis Conde (La Bambonerita)
Home base of Argentina's Boca Junior's basketball team.
Address Arzobispo Espinoza 600 y Palos
Tel. 011 4309 4748
Tickets AR$10-$20

Estadio Monumental
The Monumental - home to Club Atlético River Plate, the eternal rivals of Boca Juniors - was the setting for the opening and the final of the 1978 World Cup. It's also the largest stadium in the country. Big names such as Madonna, Keane and Red Hot Chili Peppers have also played to crowds of 60,000 and upwards here, and more concerts and festivals are planned.
Address Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 7597 y Udaondo
Tel. 011 4789 1327
Transport Bus 12, 29, 42, 107, 130
Tickets AR$10 for guided tour, 2pm and 4pm, Tue and Fri only

Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo
This palatial horseracing venue can hold up to 100,000 spectators, though it only really gets packed out for the 'Gran Premio Nacional' held in November. Other meetings take place on Mondays, Saturdays and Sundays. Betting is on the tote system, and no alcohol can be purchased at the track.
Address Avenida del Libertador 4101 y Dorrego
Tel. 011 4778 2800
Transport Bus 10, 37, 160
Open from 2-10pm Mon, Fri-Sun
Tickets vary

Hipódromo de San Isidro
Hosting races on Wednesdays and during weekends, this hipódromo is the only grass horseracing track in Argentina. Its biggest calendar event - the Gran Premio Carlos Pellegrini - takes place in December each year.
Address Avenida Márquez 504 y Santa Fe
Tel. 011 4743 4019, 011 4743 4011
Transport Train from Retiro to San Isidro
Open 9am-11.30pm daily
Admission AR$1-$5

Markus Day Spa
The first integral spa exclusively for men in Latin America, Markus offers killer services, including a fantastic three-hour pampering called Enjoy Life; another called Adore Me comes with a bowl of fruit, tea and juices, and a tantric massage. There are also skintreatments, manicures, pedicures, botox, a decent barber and, with some notice, minor plastic surgery (this is BA, after all).
Address Ground floor, Callao 1046, entre Santa Fe y Marcelo T de Alvear
Tel. 011 4811 0058, 011 4814 0494
Transport Subte D, Callao
Open 11am-11pm Mon-Fri; 11am-10pm Sat

Megatlón
Slick, clean and busy, the Megatlón chain has all the latest exercise devices and hamster wheels. It also offers a range of classes.
Address Rodriguez Peña 1062, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Santa Fe
Tel.011 4816 7009
Transport Subte D, Callao/37, 39, 111, 152 bus
Open 24hrs 7am Mon-8pm Sat; 10am-6pm Sun
Rates AR$75 per day, AR$260 per month

Puro Remo
This highly professional kayak and rowing outfit offers tourist services in addition to classes, including trips north to the lush Delta or the scenic stretch of water just north of town.
Address Juana Manso y Victoria Ocampo, Dique 4
Tel. 011 6397 3545
Open 7am-7pm daily
Admission varies

San Isidro Club
The Argentinian rugby season runs from March to November. On the domestic scene, two teams from the affluent northern suburb of San Isidro dominate: Club Atlético de San Isidro (CASI) and the San Isidro Club (SIC).
Address Blanco Encalada 404, entre Sucre y Darregueira
Tel. 011 4766 2030, 011 4763 6374
Transport Bus 60 (Panamericana line)
Tickets AR$5; AR$2.50 7-15s; free under-7s

No comments: